‘Sweatshop’, ‘greenwashing’, ‘biodegradable’ and ‘slow fashion’ are all words that have made it into the mainstream. Following the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in 2013, activist voices were brought into the spotlight and exposed the details of the damaging nature of the fashion industry: Unfair treatment of workers, exploitation of resources and the short lifespan of each garment, as compared to the time it goes on to spend in a landfill - the list goes on. Shocked by the dark secrets looming behind the shiny handbags, silky dresses and trendy jeans, a new generation of conscious buyers was awakened. A generation that knows that we, as consumers, have the power to influence as we cast a vote every time we tap our credit card. After years of oblivious consumption, there is no doubt that it is exciting to see people becoming increasingly aware of the consequences that go hand in hand with each purchase. However, the story does not end with a “happy ever after”. As we prepare to continue our fight for much-needed change, there are aspects to both the debate around and pursuit of ethical fashion that are not as black and white as they may seem at first glance…

Let’s begin with a seemingly basic topic: Thrifting. Buying second-hand is often presented as a quick solution for those who wish to avoid supporting the unethical practices that dominate the fashion industry as it stands. It’s a simple win-win, considering that allows you to take the inhumane working conditions in production factories as well as the strain on resources (such as water and air quality) out of the equation, with the bonus of generally lower prices. But, as you might expect, there are multiple sides to every story, and thrifting is not an exception to this rule.

Starting off, it should be mentioned that not all thrift stores are fundamentally or structurally as ethical as you are led to believe. Goodwill, for instance, is known as a nonprofit that provides jobs to disabled workers. Yet, once you begin to scratch below the surface, you will notice that less than one-eighth of the company’s profit goes toward its charity work. Furthermore, the company has a history of poor treatment of their workers and even actively fought against legislative proposals to raise the minimum wage. In other words, Goodwill is clearly treating their workers unethically even if they are not necessarily taking advantage of cheap labour in foreign countries - as would be the norm for a fast-fashion brand. Another example is the controversy surrounding the Salvation Army’s alleged discrimination of LGBTQ+ people. This goes to show that a bit of background research is usually needed even if you choose thrift stores over the familiar fast fashion labels.

Now, let us say you do manage to sort out where to shop based on research into the company’s history and structure. Well, there is still more to consider before you make your next purchase. One of the inevitable downsides of the mainstream’s increasing interest in buying second-hand is the gentrification of thrift stores. Prices increase as these stores are becoming more popular among people of higher income. The unfortunate reality is that whenever people are jumping on the thrifting trend, they indirectly contribute to a price increase that makes thrift stores further out of reach for the people who truly depend on the otherwise low prices.

Despite good intentions, you should therefore be aware of the privilege of shopping for pleasure rather than necessity. It can take a lot of time, dedication, and luck to find exactly what you need in a thrift store. While this can be an exciting part of the experience for some, it can be a different story when there are hardly any other alternatives. This helps explain why Depop sellers have been criticized for clearing thrift-store racks only to mark up and resell. With oversized 90s sweatshirts and “y2k” tees selling for hundreds of pounds (costing considerably more than the original price tag), second-hand shopping is becoming exclusive. This is not to say this applies to every seller on Depop, but this example helps illustrate the current dilemma that is also applicable to thrift stores. Depop started out as a great resource for people from lower-income communities. In similarity to thrift stores, the app offered second-hand clothes sold at a lower cost. An added positive was that it eliminated the hours it might have otherwise taken to find the right piece in a physical store. Now, however, this app is also heading towards gentrification.

This leads us to the next point: The culture surrounding ethical fashion. While this can be a wonderful community that is focused on a better future for both workers and the planet, it can also be one that is excluding. Shopping ethically tends to be presented as a simple choice: Either you decide to stay informed and act on it - or you are deemed selfish. But this is far from the truth. For those who can afford it, supporting small ethical brands that put emphasis on transparency seems to be the best option. However, for a big proportion of people, this is not a realistic option. For one, lack of size-inclusivity is a common issue among ethical brands, making it challenging for plus size individuals to shop ethically. Furthermore, ethical fashion is also a luxury that not everyone can afford, especially now that thrift stores are being gentrified. Expecting people from lower-income backgrounds to stay clear of fast fashion brands and only shop at thrift stores (if that is the only ethical option they can afford) is not an ethical mindset in itself. People cannot be blamed for relying on H&M or Amazon. Because corporations just like these continue to exploit and underpay their workers, many find themselves in a financial position where they do not have the freedom to choose ethical fashion. If the responsibility to support ethical fashion should fall on any individual, it is those of a privileged and wealthy background.

As consumers, this is a lot to take in, but that is precisely why we need to remember that navigating these factors is impossible to do perfectly when the system itself is flawed. The ultimate responsibility lays on the shoulders of the corporations. Rather than blaming ourselves for not doing enough or blaming those who are discovering thrifting for the subsequent price increases, we should direct the blame at the corporation themselves, or take it one step further and challenge our current economic system. Of course, there is power in aligning consumer habits with personal values, but it is also vital to keep these things in mind when we engage in activism and use our democratic vote. This is a complex issue that requires both personal commitment and collective force for change on a political level.

The murky waters of ethical fashion

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