Gen Z makeup: Rhinestones, Euphoria and redefining beauty
Ever since Euphoria swept us away in 2019 with its dreamy eyeliners and rhinestones, boundary-pushing makeup looks do no longer belong to editorial spreads only, but are flooding our Instagram feeds on the daily. The series, which brutally captures life as a teenager, has had a major impact when it comes to popularising a bolder approach to makeup. But perhaps more than anything, this trend is a reflection of the Gen Z mentality and how this generation is redefining the very definition of beauty.
“We are fearless. We are definitely more ‘out there’ in our makeup approach compared to older generations,” explains Zahra Abdul. The 21-year-old is currently based in Hannover, Germany, and embraces Gen Z culture as she creates colourful looks that she shares with the world around her, both in the digital and physical realm: “My makeup is a reflection of my personality. My family and friends know me as the loud and expressive person I am. I wear my looks around the house, and sometimes I'll even grab my favourite coffee with a bunch of rhinestones on my face.”
The community of young people embracing these vibrant influences in makeup span across continents, backgrounds, genders and sexualities. Bringing them together is their willingness to experiment with their makeup brushes and the public documentation of both the process and result on social media. Zahra believes that the contemporary emphasis on playfulness and challenging outdated norms for beauty makes greater room for self-expression. This leads to a sense of empowerment: “Wearing makeup is most definitely empowering. I love standing out and wearing makeup helps me do that. I get to express myself on my terms and I think that’s powerful.”
Traditionally, makeup has been seen as a correcting tool or a way to uphold and submit to beauty standards. Andrea Sailis, 28, is a Milan-based freelance makeup artist who appreciates the new direction the industry has been pushed in. Creative expression has become a priority and there is a newfound focus on enhancing individual beauty that can be found in one’s own ‘flaws’. “Being just pretty is now boring to me. The most beautiful part of this is to highlight the things that we don’t like. They make us special and more interesting, especially if we play around with makeup. I also think that challenging gender norms is pretty interesting, especially when it comes to fashion and beauty,” he says.
In similar character, Liya Ye, 23, points out that makeup is an art form, rather than something determining her level of confidence or attractiveness. “To me, makeup is not just for beauty. It depends on the mood. Sometimes I want to wear bold makeup. Sometimes I just want a simple and cute look - or no makeup at all,” she says. Liya is studying digital marketing in Ireland, but creates artistic makeup looks in the comfort of her bedroom. From her cow-print inspired eye makeup to her glowing highlighter - these looks are shared with more than four thousand Instagram followers. She explains that inspiration can come from anywhere around her: “Movies, the sky and even toilet paper... Sometimes I’m led by a certain colour or feeling, and I just sit there and think about the best way to express it through makeup.”
Andrea’s relationship with makeup is also an emotional one: “I always say something through makeup. I like to express my emotions through my looks, especially when I’m something editorial or artsy. You will find emotions that I am not always able to express with my voice.” He goes on to lay out his creative process: “I am always inspired by the past, my heritage and art, of course. I am a very ocd person when it comes to kit organization but in the makeup process I do work intuitively.” This is one of the reasons why Andrea appreciates how Gen Z likes to think outside the box. “Gen Z has probably the most unique approach that we have ever seen throughout history. They are able to work with futuristic creativity and art expression at the maximum level, even if they keep the looks minimal or raw.”
This development is something Liya believes the internet has aided: “This is where people get to know different beauty standards and are exposed to varying styles of makeup and aesthetics.” Liya used to watch makeup tutorials on Youtube to learn English - an activity that would also lead to a passion for makeup. She explains that her interest in editorial makeup, in particular, was boosted and influenced by Euphoria, and she thinks that many people share this experience. Andrea, on the other hand, points out that Euphoria cannot take all the credit for the creative boom in makeup culture. “Of course we have to mention Ru Paul’s Drag Race and the Club Kid Scene of the 80s and 90s. They have helped a lot when it comes to breaking gender rules, especially with make up,” says Andrea. Zahra agrees: “Editorial makeup has existed way before shows like Euphoria graced our televisions. I think the people we should be crediting are black women and the LGBT community; in reference to trans women and drag queens who brought forth a whole new style of bold and colourful makeup application.”
As the mainstream is becoming increasingly accepting of unconventional looks and approaches to beauty, one might ask where that leaves us in terms of what we can expect from the future of the industry. 2020 was defined by everything from fluttery mascara, floating eyeliner and mismatched eyeshadow to neon makeup and lots of bedazzle. How would we like to see the beauty world progress as the new year has rolled around? “Maybe we have arrived at a certain point where we need to try hard if we want to create something new and smart,” says Zahra. However, she is quick to mention that the industry is always changing and growing. “Beauty has always surprised me and I still want to be surprised by it. I would love to see makeup as an instrument that unifies people.”
The last couple of years has seen more awareness surrounding diversity in beauty campaigns, but Zahra thinks there is still a long way to go. She worries that brands such as those that are following Fenty Beauty’s example (offering a wider range of foundation colours) might do so simply because it is trendy. To demonstrate her point, Zahra explains that once people stopped posting about #BLM last summer, there was no longer a focus on supporting black creators. Brands moved on and most people did the same. “Inclusivity should never be a trend and as a black woman, seeing my work and the work of other black creatives only being valued at a time of unrest is unsettling and offensive.” She continues: “On these campaigns, we need to see more people of colour, more plus-size, different skin conditions, trans and non-binary people, more visibly Muslims women, and so on. There's so much left to do in terms of inclusivity but we’re slowly getting there. Rome wasn't built in a day.”