ILAG: Nordic design, circular fashion and a tribute to everyday life

“ILAG is an adverb used in Norwegian dialects. ILAG is a positive word for doing something together, for each other and for the community. A word that awakens under the Norwegian spirit of devotion, to do something for others without expecting anything in return.” This is the foundation of the up-and-coming clothing brand ILAG.

The brand brings together Nordic functionality and simplicity with a modern twist. Just as important is the commitment to green solutions. This is reflected in the ground-breaking recycling system they offer, where customers return garments to be redesigned. With sustainability as a top priority, founder Renate Nipe is set to launch the first collection ILAG på kysten (On the coast together) in August.

We had a chat with Renate about circular fashion, childhood inspiration, and the ups and downs of starting your own brand.

“Town and country, fjord and mountains. Wet, raw, forest and moorland, coast and meadow. The darkness and the light,” Renate describes. Everything from production and functionality to materials and design is inspired by Norway in some way or another. The first collection pays homage to a village named Valevåg in Sunnhordland where Renate grew up and spent her days fishing, boating and swimming. One of the ILAG prints is inspired by the familiar fish species that can be found in the area. The knitted neck warmers are inspired by the protection needed from the strong wind, but is designed to be worn over a shirt, under a jacket, and even as a top. Not only are the designs influenced by Sunnhordland but each piece is named after a place in the district. “Norway has so much to offer and ILAG will represent and promote Norway as I see it,” says Renate.

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ILAG is supposed to feel warm, authentic, and inclusive.

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Another fundamental part of the brand is functionality, hence the relaxed fits and versatility of each garment. Renate is an experienced designer who has previously worked for Days Like This and Urban. Her 20 years in the industry has given her a good look into what the typical Norwegian likes to wear and how they wear it. But to ensure that her brand is user-friendly, she has conducted qualitative and quantitative interviews with women aged 20–45. “This has given me a solid understanding of what women in this target group want and expect from the garments they buy,” she says. Renate emphasises that she produces daily-wear with the intention of celebrating everyday life and making each day a bit more beautiful through elevated everyday fashion. “ILAG is fresh everyday garments that offer enough comfort to wear at home while being presentable enough to wear to work and social gatherings. ILAG is supposed to feel warm, authentic, and inclusive.”

What makes ILAG stand out above all else is its recycling system which allows customers to return their used garments in return for discounts. The garments will then be cleaned, repaired, and redesign and sold as second-hand products on the site. This system was born as a result of Renate feeling fed up with the ways of the fast fashion industry. “I was not able to walk into a shop without feeling horrible as I was greeted by racks stuffed with clothing, and 20 pairs of the same top labelled ‘3 for 2’.” From there on, she decided that regardless of what she would go on to do in the fashion industry, it had to be with “a modern and sustainable approach.” Now, these are defining terms for ILAG and because of its circular system, the brand can be described as a capsule wardrobe shared by the community. But at the end of the day, Renate says that the success of the system is up to the customers. “I think a change in mindset is needed among consumers. Why are new things like clothing, furniture, big cars, and expensive purses expressions of status? There should be less focus on ‘owning’ things. This especially applies to older generations. I think they have a lot to learn from the younger generations.”

Aside from the circular system, ILAG has committed to several other green initiatives, like striving to use solely organic, recycled materials, and waste fabrics. Not only that, but Renate is one of a handful of designers slowing down the ‘fashion seasons’ by limiting the number of collections to two each year. In an effort to be transparent about their practices, ILAG will also provide information about the approvals of each particular item and the factory they were made in. As of now, Renate currently works with four different factories in Mumbai, Guangdong, Turkey and China. The majority of these were found through research and her established network. She hopes that she will one day be able to move production to Norway but explains that all four factories were chosen for their “young mindset with innovative and good values.”

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It’s neither sustainable nor economical if the clothing just remains in the store or is only sold at a discount.

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It is no secret that sustainable production tends to be more expensive and time-consuming than standard production, which also leads to higher prices. Renate has, therefore, spent much time debating how she can offer fair and affordable prices to as many people as possible, despite the high production costs. “It’s very important to choose the ‘right’ prices for the items. It’s neither sustainable nor economical if the clothing just remains in the store or is only sold at a discount,” she says. Renate also points out that more brands working with materials such as recycled wool eventually means driving the prices down and ultimately make it more accessible. In that way, there are several positive sides to supporting such sustainable practices.

ILAG officially launched under the fashion fair CIFF in Copenhagen in January. “The reception was absolutely overwhelming. Influential names in the industry were interested in buying the collection or collaborate, which has resulted in 17 shops that will be selling ILAG garments,” says Renate. She explains that the response outside of CIFF has also been astonishing as she gets daily messages from people wishing to be set up on waitlists for items, students wanting to do placements, and tailors wanting to work on ILAG redesign.

Renate says that starting up her own brand has been both inspiring and nerve-wracking, leading to a number of sleepless nights. “But it is worth it because ILAG gives me so much energy. It’s not only a job to me, it’s a big part of my life and the way I’m wired. I put everything into ILAG and try to not spend too much time thinking about what if...” ILAG is a concept she has had in the back of her head for a long time, which makes it especially exciting to see come to life. At the same time, it is a consuming project that involves taking on a lot of new roles and challenges. Renate emphasises the importance of taking breaks, as not to wear herself out and stunt her creative abilities. She gives her partner much credit for keeping a positive mindset even on bad days. In terms of support, she also names Innovation Norway as a crucial factor that has made it possible for her to embark on this journey, both in terms of motivation and funding.

For Renate, there are a lot of things that need to come together before the launch, but she is excited to share this passion project with the world. “Looking ahead, I hope that ILAG’s redesign products will be more popular than the original collection. Maybe there shouldn’t be an original collection but rather previous collections on loop?” she says. ILAG will be available online in August and only time will tell exactly how the circular system will take shape. Regardless, this is certainly an exciting step for the world of sustainable fashion and we eagerly await ILAG på kysten.