A piece of: Lyon, France

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Firstly, we live in a world where we have to change our habits in order to reduce the impact on the global warming. This means less travelling in a year. Having the opportunity to explore new cities, countries and cultures is a luxury and an extremely important tool for experiencing new ways of living and setting our own culture in perspective. Therefore, choose your next destination wisely. 

In late august last year, I moved to Lyon. Often referred to as “little Paris” by travellers. Smaller, cheaper, closer to Italy and the Swiss alps and less travelled – there is a lot to mention when argumenting why you should choose Lyon over Paris. To be honest, it was not love at first sight, it was a stumble start with lots of new impressions striving to create a new home. However, after eight and a half months in the city I have left a piece of my hearth in the city’s lights, people and streets. I want you to do the same, and I am sure you will with the following handpicked tips for your next trip to France which will be Lyon and not Paris.  

As soon as you figure out that there are two rivers (Rhône and Saône) that runs through the city it becomes really easy to get around as you can pretty much walk everywhere. As every big, French city, the city is divided into “arrondissements”, different districts or “quartiers”. Lyon has 9. The city also has two hills (la Croix-Rousse and Fouvrière), so whenever you are lost look for the river or a hill and you will find which way you need to go. The city offers a great transport system with city bikes (vélov), underground (TCL), bus and trams.

 

For dancing the night away or drinking a beer/a glass of wine🍷

It is really easy to find a nice place for a drink in Lyon. Top places to drink/dance/ share a plate of cheese are “les pentes de la Croix Rousse” + the area behind the universities. In the summer time: hang out in the boats along “Rhône” or do as the locals, stay along one of the rivers. Here are my best addresses:

1th& 4th arrondissements  

Le bec de Jazz:

Is supposed to be a really nice club/jazz dancing club according to some friends.

Odessa Comptoir:

For wine. Intime and cosy atmosphere, busy all days of the week. Located in a super nice street which also offers other nice wine bars. 

La Grooverie:

For dancing. Never been, but it is very popular.

7tharrondissement

Le Bouillon Paradis:

Bar, always packed with people from the “quartier”.

Le Petit Salon:

For dancing until 7am. Quite expensive and often has some cool people coming to play music. Check out their facebook-page.

La confluence

Le sucre:

Really cool rooftop bar, has a lot of events (check their facebook). Often free events on sundays.

Guillotière

Le court circuit:

Bar in the 7th, has a really nice area outside where you can spend your evenings during the summer months.

L’amicale:

Bar which is only open in the weekends. The cheapest beer in Lyon, around 2€!!

La marquise or la passagère:

Boats along the river to drink beer or wine on

 

Markets to buy cheese, baguettes and chairs🍋

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The huge weekends markets in France is something that has always fascinated me, as this is something we don’t have in Norway. Waking up early on a Sunday to go to the market is always a good idea, the atmosphere is unique and it is a great place to watch people.

The Saturday market in Croix-Rousse is really nice. Take the metro A to «Hôtel de ville », and the metro C to Croix Rousse, the marked is right outside.

There is also a marked along both of the rivers in the weekends. The most famous is Marché Saint Antoine, which you can combine with seeing the old town.

The market right outside the metro station at Jean-Macé is also worth a visit.

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“Les Puces du Canal” is located outside the city center and is a perfect way to spent a sunny Sunday. This is a huge flea market where you’ll find whatever you can imagine. There are also some cafés at the market so you can easily spend the whole day here.

 

Museums worth spending half a day👒

Musée des confluences:

Worth going only to watch the building from outside. A natural history museum located in the area of Confluence where the two riversthat runs through the city meet. Free for students. 

La sucrière:

Also located in Confluence. An old sugar factory which is turned to a bar, a scene and an exhibitions area. Google it to see what’s up now.

Photo galeries in « Croix Rousse » :

For exemple « Le Bleu du Ciel » and « Galerie le réverbère ».

Institut Lumière:

Lyon is the birthplace for film, this is the city’s film museum. Worth visiting and has a nice library with lots of great books concerning photography and film.

“One of my favorite spots in Lyon is the «ciné-café» Aquarium. Located in a quiet street in Croix-Rousse, this is a hidden treasure for movie enthusiasts. It is a mix between bar, cinema and movie club, as well as a venue for talks and discussions of current topics. However, it is the ambience that spikes my interest the most. With comfy sofas placed in front of the movie screen and old VHS cartridges filling up the shelves, it almost feels like home. After each movie it is facilitated for discussion of the movie, something that lets the audience share their thoughts on the movie and actually making it possible to make some new local friends. I also have to mention the selection of local beer and wine they sell in the bar. 

One of my all-time favourite night in Lyon was when me and some friends went to Aquarium after dinner to watch Dirty Dancing with a (several) glass(es) of wine each and then went to the «famous» jazz bar called Le Bec du Jazz, which is located in the same area, and danced all night long.”

- Hanne Nygaard, graduated master student at Université Jean Moulin Lyon 3

 

Green areas to stay the whole day🌿

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For views:

Le jardin des curiositès and the green area near place Bellevue

For escaping the city life:

Parc de la Tete d’or. A must. Also home to a picture-perfect botanical garden!

For watching people in Croix Rousse:

Parc Sutter, jardin des plantes

Tip: 

My best tip is to browse your facebook for upcoming events, there is an unbelievable number of things going on in the city. Suddenly you’ll end up in a neighbourhood party, a realise of a new art expedition or your dream flea market. Keep your eyes open!

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Daytrips🎠

If you want to explore more of France while you are in Lyon; here’s a small list:

Annecy:

Quite well-known town, located really close to Gèneve. It has a beautiful lake and is surrounded by majestic mountains.

Beaujolais:

Wine-district only a bus ride away. Perfect to escape the city life. 

Dijon:

Some hours in a bus/train north from Lyon. A town which offers a completely different architecture and atmosphere than Lyon. Worth a visit if you want to see more of France.

Avignon:

Gorgeous town south from Lyon. If you are looking for an idyllic town with a more southern vibe, you have come to the right place.

The “quartiers” worth visiting🖇

As I mentioned the city is divided into 9 different “arrondissements”, all of which has their own charm, feeling and citizens. I’ll mention those who became my favourites. 

 Stay: I would stay in the 3th, 7thor 1th arrondissement. HO36 are a chain of hostels which has good options. Airbnb also offers plenty of dreamy apartments in these areas.

La Croix Rousse (1th& 4th arrondissements)

In the 1tharrondissement (“Hôtel de ville” and “les pentes de la Croix Rousse”) and the 4tharrondissement (“Croix Rousse”) you will find the city’s “hipster area”. This is an area for creatives, on every corner you’ll see art galleries, independent cafés and concept stores. It can be compared to Oslo’s “Grunerløkka”, Berlins “Neukölln” or Copenhagens “Nørrebro”. Take the metro to “Hôtel de ville” and walk your way up the hill towards the 4tharrondissement. PS: the best place for vintage is located here, “Fripes Ketchup” 

La Confluence (2tharrondissement) 

A futuristic part of the city where the focus is on new energy and new, innovative ways to build. Lots of colourful architect-built buildings. Located south in 2th“arrondissement”

La Guillotière ( 3tharrondissement)

Located between the 3th and the 7th arrondissement. This is the multicultural area in Lyon and also one of the up-and-coming areas in the city. Here you willl find everything from art collectives, a quite big Maghrebian area and a tiny China-town. The city’s students are hanging out along the “quais” or the riverside whenever the sun is out. Do not forget to take a swim in “Centre Nautique Tony Bertrand”, an outside pool along the river.

Vieux Lyon (5tharrondissement)

“Vieux Lyon” (“old Lyon”) is also a must! This is the most and only(!!) really touristy area in the city. Take the funicular (which is part of the metro system) up the hill to “Fourvière”. You will be rewarded with views all over the city and a beautiful church. Walk down, preferably through the old city. 

Student area (7tharrondissement)

The 7tharrondissement is located behind Université Lyon 2 and Lyon 3. Two of the public universities in the city. Really nice area with lots of cool bars and cafés. Check out the street «Rue d’Anvers» where you will find among others Café Bistrot des Fauves. Tip: the universities, especially those along the river, are very pretty!! They are open during weekdays if you find it interesting to visit

Cafés/restaurants worth testing out (categorized by arrondissement)🍰

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Lyon is also referred to as the “Gastronomic” capital of France and offers a wide range of restaurants and cafés. Despite the fact that you can’t test them all out on a student budget, here’s some worth visiting;

1th& 4th arrondissements:  

Ho36:

Hostel which has a nice café, but more like a working café.

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La Boîte à Café/puzzle café: 

At these two coffee places you will find the best coffee in Lyon

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7th arrondissement:

Le Bouillion Paradis:

Amazing plates with slices of cheese and meat. Quite cheap compared to the rest of the city. Perfect for dinner

Le Bistot des Fauves:

Lovely café, around lunchtime it is reserved for hungry lunch guests from the neighbourhood.

SOFFFA:

Cool working café. You pay for every hour, and you can serve yourself with cakes and drinks.

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Café Nova:

Not open in the weekends. Really nice café in the student area, homemade cakes and coffee. Lots of nice cafés in the same road. 

2th arrondissement:

Café Marmot:

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Nice and affordable lunch in the 2th arrondissement. Always fully booked in the weekends.

Le Simone

Independent (working) café with cool things happening every month. Check out their facebook-page.

Slake Coffee House: a newly reopened café which also offers a small art gallery. 

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La Guillotère:

Indian cantine:

Nice, authentic and affordable Indian restaurant.

Konditori:

Great brunch in the weekends, you will ask yourself whether you are in France or in Oslo.

 

“If you’re young wanting to explore France, Lyon is the best place to start. I fell in love with this French city because it has a certain poetry to it. I fell in love with the way the basilic majestically stands on the Fourvière hill and sort of looks over her city in silent contemplation. Still today after I have lived in Lyon for two years I get this quiet feeling of being watched by this gigantic building, resting on top of the hill. 

If you’re new in Lyon, start off with a coffee break at the cafe de bellecour, a charming street cafe in the heart of Lyon, the Bellecour square. If you want to do as the people of Lyon do, enjoy the lovely architecture on the presque île, and dig in an oyster lunch by the Saône river. Other must sees are the parc de la tête d’or and the Croix Rousse area. Perfect for afternoons of sightseeing. And if you ask me, the best place to drink a beer on friday night is in the 7th district around the big universities.”

-Dina Dignæs Eikeland, 3rdyear student at Université Lumière Lyon 2

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